What is a folded knitted hem?

A folded hem is knitted twice the desired depth, with a turning ridge in the middle. The facing folds to the inside and is sewn or knitted together with the body. It creates a clean, professional edge without ribbing.

How do I make a turning ridge?

For stockinette, work one row of purl on the right side (or knit on the wrong side) at the fold point. This creates a natural fold line. For a picot hem, work *k2tog, yo* across the turning row instead.

Should the facing have fewer stitches?

Yes, the inside facing should have 5-10% fewer stitches than the body to prevent the hem from flaring. Work a decrease round just after the turning ridge, then increase back before joining to the body.

How do I join the hem facing to the body?

The neatest method is to pick up the cast-on stitches and knit them together with the live stitches (like a three-needle bind-off from the inside). Alternatively, sew the facing down with a tapestry needle.

What yarn needle do I need for sewing hems?

Use a blunt tapestry needle in a size appropriate for your yarn weight. For DK, a size 18-20 tapestry needle works well. The blunt tip prevents splitting the yarn stitches.

KnitCalcs

Hem Calculator — Folded Hem Dimensions & Stitches

Calculate stitch counts and row counts for a folded knitted hem with a turning ridge.

Hem Width

Width of the hemmed edge

Hem Depth

Depth of the folded hem

Stitch Gauge (per 10cm)

Stitches per 10cm from your gauge swatch

Row Gauge (per 10cm)

Rows per 10cm from your gauge swatch

How We Calculate This

This calculator determines the stitch and row counts for a folded hem based on width and desired hem depth.

The formula

Hem stitches = Width (cm) x Stitch gauge per cm

Facing rows = Hem depth (cm) x Row gauge per cm

Total hem rows = Facing rows x 2 (facing + visible hem)

The turning ridge is worked at the midpoint.

Frequently Asked Questions

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Last updated: February 2026

All calculations are estimates based on standard yarn weights and gauge. Results may vary with individual tension, yarn brand, and needle size.